Italy Archives - Page 4 of 8 - Shared Adventures

The Best of Both: City & Beach

June 1, 2021 by Ann Petronio

When you’re starting to plan your next getaway the question inevitably arises: should we take a city break or beach vacation? People tend to have strong opinions one way or the other, and it can seem difficult to come up with a compromise. Especially when traveling to Europe.

best of both City & Beach graphic explaining 5 different european cities with both great city breaks and beaches to visit — *[Pin it for Later!]*

Fortunately, you don’t have to choose! There are plenty of beautiful, historic cities in Europe that also have relaxing, sun-soaked beaches. You can spend your European vacation exploring museums and wandering the cobblestone streets one day, and splashing in the stunning sea the next. We’ve created a quick guide to our top city/beach destinations with just a taste of what each has to offer. Read on below for even more detailed descriptions of what you’ll discover in these amazing places.

Vielle Ville -Nice’s old town features rustic narrow streets, colorful markets, and a vibrant atmosphere. You can enjoy beautiful architecture like the Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate or the 17th-century mansion Palais Lascaris. The old town includes the most popular dining destinations, charming buildings, markets, and monuments. It’s worth spending the day soaking up the history and atmosphere.

Musee d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain (MAMAC)– This modern art museum has over 1300 pieces of art on display. The collection includes avant-garde works from the late 50s to the present day. And you can always head to the rooftop terrace for beautiful panoramic views of the city.

six bouquets of beautiful flowers at the flower market in Nice France

Marche Aux Fleurs Cours Saleya – Pretty striped awnings, hundreds of multicolored, intense, vivid bouquets, and exotic plants. This vibrant market has been in existence for over 120 years and is a must-see when in Nice. While the market is mainly flowers you can also find fruits, veggies, and stalls selling local delicacies. We recommend going early, bringing small bills, and enjoying this colorful, aromatic experience.

[Photo Credit: Kylie Paz via Unsplash]

aerial view of a beach with the light blue water on top and the grey pebbles covered with people on towels and pastel colored umbrellas in Page Beau Rivage inNice France

Castel Plage -The best views of the Bay of Angels with a chic and sophisticated atmosphere. There are several luxury hotels, bars, restaurants, and historic sites nearby. This smaller beach provides private decking down to the water’s edge, pebbles, and calm waters for the perfect break from the city.

Plage Beau Rivage– A longtime hotspot, this private beach is right at the foot of the old town. It’s the largest beach in the French Riviera and is packed with 5-star amenities. Dine in gourmet restaurants on the shore, sip on a cocktail from the luxe lounge bar or rent a classic blue striped sunbed. Head to the Beau Rivage for an iconic, glamorous French Riviera experience.

Coco Beach – Locals love this small public rocky outcrop. Here you won’t find rentals or beach clubs but just the chance to soak up the sun on the warm rocks and dive into the water. Located in a residential area about 5 minutes from the other beaches, this is the perfect spot if you want a quick dip.

[Photo Credit: Alex D’Alessio via Unsplash]

Las Ramblas– This famous promenade stretches 1.2km from the oldest port in the city to the new shopping center. Las Ramblas is full of shops, outdoor cafes, markets, theatre, and art. It is a completely pedestrian zone allowing you to take your time and soak in the atmosphere.

a curves wall covered in mosaics on a terrace overlooking the city of Barcelona at Gaudi's Park Guell

Gaudi’s Park Güell -This UNESCO World Heritage Site sits on a hill above the city. It offers stunning panoramic views, intriguing ceramics, Roman temples, and a forest of enchantment, all designed by the famous Catalan artist Antoni Gaudí in his signature style. Surrounding Gaudi’s beautiful work is a maze of carefully landscaped trails, soft green hills, intricate walls, and bridges, making this one of Barcelona’s most impressive parks.

La Boqueria Market– The best and most famous food market near Las Ramblas. Originally dating back to a 1217 meat market, La Boqueria now serves a huge variety of meat, fish, fruit, veggies, spices, and local dishes. This is a foodie’s paradise from seafood tapas to fruit smoothies. When visiting Barcelona it’s a must to spend time soaking up the atmosphere and the explosion of colors.

[Photo Credit: Denise Jones via Unsplash]

golden sand and waves kissing the shore with the famous sail-shaped building in the background on Barcelonetta beach in Barcelona Spain

Barceloneta Beach – The oldest and best-loved beach, Barceloneta is linked with the fishing quarter of the same name. The most famous Barcelona beach and the one closest to the city. Its soft golden sands will get crowded in the peak summer season so arrive early to enjoy the classic neighborhood-by-the-sea atmosphere and many amenities.

Bogatell Beach – Classic Barcelona golden sands, a huge variety of recreational facilities, and easy mobility access — this beach has it all. There are smaller crowds here, and they tend to be a little older averaging around 35-38 years. Beautiful water, seafood, and sun lounger rentals make this the perfect place to spend a sun-soaked day.

Nova Icaria– A wide stretch of golden sand on this peaceful beach makes it perfect for families and big groups. Nova Icaria, right next to Bogatell, has the widest range of leisure amenities, including restaurants, bars, playgrounds, ping-pong, and beach volleyball. This was a beach made with large families in mind.

[Photo Credit: Alessio Rinella via Unsplash]

Pompeii & Vesuvius -An easy day-trip from Naples this famous archeological wonder is a must-see. You can book a tour with transportation included, or get a guided tour when you arrive. After marveling at the living museum of Pompeii, head up to Mt Vesuvius itself. The hike to the top is suitable for all ages with many rest areas along the way to admire the panoramic city views.

Historic City Center– This UNESCO World Heritage Site has existed through twenty-seven centuries of history! The largest historic center in Europe, you can admire the many museums, monasteries, catacombs, and over 200 churches. It’s impossible to see it all so we highly recommend taking a local tour to help you appreciate the highlights.

Sansevero Chapel Museum– Mystery and beauty blend to create one of the most enigmatic chapels in Europe. Sansevero Chapel is located in the historic city center and holds some of the greatest marble sculptures in the world. We recommend reading up on the history of the artists and the chapel before visiting.

[Photo Credit:David Mark via Pixabay]

top photo a wide bay with mountains in the distance and the sky at sunset in the bay of Naples, bottom photo people in a bay sitting on rocks with a yacht in the background

Gaiola Beach – This almost hidden beach is in the Posilipo district. The beach is divided into two sections — the public area, which is a local favorite swimming spot, and the marine protected area in Parco Sommerso Della Gaiola, with its untouched beauty and beautiful views. The blue-green water is perfect for swimming, kayaking, snorkeling, or scuba. Or just settle in on the rocks or small sandy strips to soak in the sun.

Miseno & Miliscola – Located in the Bacoli area at the extreme point of the Capo Miseno peninsula, these two beaches feature a long seaboard with several lidos, bars, cafes, restaurants, and facilities. This is the perfect spot for a picnic with friends or family, with soft sand, clear shallow waters, and a long coast.

Scoglione di Marachiaro – Marechiaro is a seaside town famous for its beauty. This beach can only be reached by boat from the Calata Ponticello, creating a unique experience. Crystal clear water is perfect for a swim, or you can lay your towel on the long rocks or rent a sunbed. This is the perfect beach for classic Italian charm and taking a dip in the Med.

[Photo Credit Top: Jan Gottweiss, Bottom: Ferran Feixas via Unsplash ]

Alfama Neighborhood– The oldest, most traditional, and charming neighborhood in Lisbon. There’s plenty to see as you wander the steep cobblestone lanes. Visit the Castelo de Sao Jorge, hop on the iconic tram, or head to Miradouro de Santa Luzia for breath-taking views on a romantic terrace. Enjoy the cafes, music, and festivals and soak up the atmosphere in this vibrant, lively neighborhood.

a view of red tiled roofs and white buildings including a small tower with the sea in the background looking from a height in Lisbon Portugal

Jerónimos Monastery – This UNESCO World Heritage Site was built in the 1500s and is a must-see site for history and culture. The church features tree-trunk size columns and exhibits a mastery of architecture. Mixing naturalistic elements and religious symbols in its magnificent cloisters and gardens it’s one of the most interesting monuments in Lisbon.

Museu Nacional do Azulejo– A one-of-a-kind museum all about the famous Portuguese azulejos, or tiles. Housed in an old convent from 1509, the collection features pieces as far back as the 1400s. Exhibiting masterpieces of tile art, the azulejos tell a story, and the museum takes you through their history. This unique collection will let you see Lisbon with new appreciation.

[Photo Credit: Tom Byrom via Unsplash]

top photo: Carcavelos beach with golden sand and surfers catching waves with a historic castle walls in the background, bottom photo: Adraga golden sand beach with jagged rock formations at sunset in Lisbon Portugal

Carcavelos Beach – Located halfway between Lisbon and Cascais, this wide beach is one of the largest on the Lisbon coast. Strong waves make it perfect for surfing or bodyboarding, but there’s plenty to do here besides hitting the waves — including a scenic promenade for skaters and joggers, restaurants and bars with seating on the beach and parasols to rent. This is a lively beach, big and convenient to get to, only a 20 min train ride from the city center.

Adraga – Less than 45min from Lisbon, this beautiful beach features a rock arch, strong waves and is a favorite among locals. Perfect for walking, fishing, and families who want to play in the warm sand. Explore the beach caves or just admire the dramatic coastline from the restaurant terrace.

Arrabida Beaches – The coastline to the south of Lisbon is full of beautiful beaches. A 30 minute train ride from the city center, this area is a natural paradise and protected park. With calm crystal-clear waters, laid-back restaurants, and even some Roman ruins, stretches of golden sand, lush green hills, and vibrant colors make these beaches the perfect getaway.

[Photo Credit Top: Zachary Pearson, Bottom: Natalia Alves via Unsplash]

graphic wavy circle with Split Croatia written in the middle

Marjan Forest Park – One of the most beautiful places to visit in Split. This park offers nature, peacefulness, and mystery. Formerly the residence of monks, it has been transformed into a top place for recreation. Perfect for cycling, hiking, walking, and enjoying the stunning views with a coffee from the cafe.

an aerial view of downtown Split Croatia with the harbor and red tiled roofs and mountains in the background

Historic Old Town – There’s a lot to see in Split’s historic old town, and much of it is well-marked with signs in English! Wander the pedestrian-only medieval historic streets, enjoy the cafes, bars, restaurants, and shops. Soak in the history all around you as you navigate the maze of cobblestone alleyways. Be sure to visit the Diocletian’s Palace, the 13th century Bell Tower and the statue of Nin!

Klis Fortress– This ancient stronghold is just outside of Split. You can admire ancient ruins and the 2000-year-old history that seeps from the stones. Sprawling over the hilltop, this fortress is full of lookouts and nooks and you can explore it all with complete freedom.

[Photo Credit:Spencer Davis via Unsplash]

a white stony path to the right of a bright blue sea with green tress overhanging the path in Split Croatia

Bačvice – This sandy beach is only a 10-minute walk from this historic old town. A very popular local beach in the heart of the city, the shallow waters are perfect for little ones. You can rent chairs and umbrellas, play water sports, rent jet skis and swim in the clear calm waters.

Ovčice – Just a 5-minute walk from Bacvice Beach, Ovcice is lined with cafes and restaurants with beautiful ocean views. This small pebble beach features many amenities, especially for children, such as rentals, playgrounds, and trampolines! It’s right next to the city and will give you a typical Croatian beach experience.

Ježinac– To avoid the crowds of the main city beaches head to Jezinac at the base of Marjan Hill. This quieter and more peaceful beach is only 2 miles from the city center. It has an upscale atmosphere with luxury accommodations, dining, and amenities. It’s one of the most scenic pebble beaches, offering plenty of places to relax in the sun in style.

[Photo Credit: Tom Bradley via Unsplash]

These are just a small sample of what these fascinating cities and beautiful beaches have to offer, if your interest is piqued- let us know! We’re excited to help plan an adventure that combines the best of both worlds!

The Diversity of The Dolomites

May 11, 2021 by Ann Petronio

Dolomites Guide Pin — *Pin it for Later!*

Le Dolomiti aren’t generally top of mind for Americans planning an Italian adventure but they should definitely be added to the list. Located along the Italian-Austrian border, just a few hours north of Venice, the Dolomites offer a breath of fresh air and scenery that will leave you speechless. Jagged pale mountains tower over green rolling hills, towns and villages mix Austrian Chalets with sunny Italian piazzas, medieval churches, and modern world-renowned restaurants. Reliable snowfall creates a winter wonderland of luxury ski resorts and breathtaking snowshoeing paths, while the lush alpine meadows burst into bloom along the hundreds of hiking trails and glacial lakes in the summer. These mountains are a nature lover’s paradise, but you don’t have to be an expert hiker or mountaineer to enjoy the trails, which range from leisurely walks to rock climbing. The Dolomites are a great travel alternative to the Swiss Alps and the perfect starting or ending to your adventure around “The Boot.”

The Basics

looking down on a winding road surrounded by trees

Getting Oriented: If you’re not familiar with exactly where the Dolomites are, that’s okay. You’re not alone. Here’s a helpful map to put the general location in perspective.

Getting Around: The closest airports available are either Venice or Innsbruck and from there you’ll need to take a bus, train, or car into the mountains. Towns both large and small are connected by a network of bus and rail lines, so getting around without a car isn’t impossible. However, if you want to be on your own schedule and arrive early at the more popular sights, we recommend renting a car. The famous Grande Strada Delle Dolomiti cuts through three alpine passes and is one of the most beautiful scenic roads in Europe. With lots of twists and turns without being too hair-raising, driving this road is reason enough to rent a car — just make sure you get an International Driver’s Permit before you arrive!

[Photo Credit: Luke Stackpoole via Unsplash]

Weather- the Dolomites are characterized by short summers and snowy winters. Though both seasons enjoy brilliant sunshine since the Dolomites receive more sun than any other region of the Alps. There are two peak tourist seasons: the height of summer and the depth of winter. In the in-between seasons, you’ll find very few crowds but unpredictable weather, and most businesses and mountain huts closed. Summer Season begins in mid-June and lasts through August for warm sunny days. For all things snowy, the winter season lasts from December until the last snow in early April.

an imposing spire mountain towers above a small local Inn in the Dolomites Italy

Rifugio – in addition to the range of wellness spas, hotels, chalets, and alpine cabins, the Dolomites give you the option of staying in a rifugio. Meaning refuge, these small inns are dotted along the trails in the heart of the mountains. When hiking from peak to peak you can stop for a delicious warm meal, a hot shower, and a bed for the night. You’re always welcome to stop in for a bite, but beds will have to be reserved well in advance. Rifugios are only open during the peak seasons and range from a dorm bed to romantic private rooms. Waking up to see the sunrise while ensconced in the mountain peaks makes staying at least one night in a rifugio a must-do when hiking in the Dolomites.

[Photo Credit:Ruud Luijten via Unsplash]

Multiple Languages – due to its diverse history of cultures and borders, the Dolomites have four official languages: Italian, German, Ladin, and Friulan. German and Italian are spoken equally depending on the town and the person. In this case, multiple languages mean at least two names for each place! The German and the Italian names often don’t resemble each other in the slightest. While the buses and s,.[igns will have both the German and Italian versions when you ask the locals you may only get one or the other. We recommend noting down both names to help minimize your confusion.

Where to Stay

With 26 mountain ranges stretching across five provinces, the Dolomites cover a lot of ground. To make sure you don’t spend more time driving than experiencing, we recommend selecting only 2-3 areas to explore during your trip. The most popular regions in the Dolomites can be broken up into about 5 slightly overlapping areas, each with diverse highlights but all with stunning beauty and excellent outdoor activities.

Alta Pusteria/ Hochpusterta

a beautiful mountain lake surrounded by grey jagged mountains in the Dolomites Italy

In the north-eastern corner, bordering Austria is the very popular area of Alta Pusteria. Along with the charming romantic towns and impressive mountain views, you’ll find a focus on wellness, gastronomy, and some of the most Instagram-famous sights. Alta Pusteria is perfect for tiny churches, extensive bike paths, exploring castles, enjoying lakes, and taking a restorative bath in the sulfurous waters.

[Photo Credit: Jonas Verstuyft via Unsplash]

Top Sites:
Lago di Braies/Pragser Wildsee– the most famous and most beautiful lake in the Dolomites – enjoy the turquoise water by taking the 3.5km easy walking circuit around it, hire a boat to explore from its center or brave a swim in the glacial waters.
Tre Cime/Drei Zinnen– the poster picture for the Dolomites, these three tall spires have created their own holiday region and national park. You could spend days hiking the trails in and around them, though their main circuit is a 3hr 10.5km trail. Head counterclockwise on the circuit for the best views from within or get an amazing view of the peaks themselves from the steep trail in Val Fiscalina to Rifugio Locatelli.

Towns to Stay in:
Dobbiaco/Toblach – the largest and oldest town in the region. This charming village is the closest hub to Lago di Braies. Austrian cottages and luxury food await your stay.
San Candido/Innichen– a delightfully small hamlet close to the Austrian border but still with an Italian piazza in its center. It is often called The Gem of Val Pusteria.

[Photo Credit: Jeison Higuita via Unsplash]

a turquoise lake reflecting a stoney mountain and surrounding forest with a line of wooden boats and boathouse on Lago di Braies Italy

Belluno/Belum

looking down on a small town between two imposing mountains in the Dolomites Italy

Often considered the gateway to the Dolomites, Belluno is a perfect base for exploring the eastern range. Eighty percent of the mountains are in the Belluno province so the sites to see are extensive. Glaciers, waterfalls, forests, and shopping, Belluno offers a lot of options, making it the perfect spot for those who want to try a bit of everything.

[Photo Credit: Julian Villella via Unsplash]

Top Sights
Rifugio Nuvolau– The oldest rifugio in the Dolomites and one of the best balcony views of the mountains.
Lago di Sorapis/Sorapissee– the slightly hidden lake is a two-hour hike from Cortina but worth the otherworldly views.
Lago Misurina/Misurinasee– clear water reflects the contours of the craggy mountains in this Pearl of the Dolomites. Easily reached from Alta Pusteria, this lake’s special microclimate makes it a center for respiratory health.
Val di Zoldo– a small alpine valley that is the heart of the mountaineers’ villages. This hidden gem is not very busy, so it feels very authentic and genuine. From here you can take the trail to Lago Coldai for a swim.
Monte Cristallo/Hohe Schneide– in the center of the Dolomites, this mountain features four peaks that can be reached by cable car, mountaineering, or skiing.

Towns to Stay In:
Cortina d’Ampezzo– the most famous town around, often called the Queen of the Dolomites. Cortina is the jet-set, trendy and worldly fashionista town nestled in mountainous craggy spires. Not only can you easily get to Tre Cime and Lago di Braies from northerly Cortina, but you can also access a huge number of amazing peaks. But Cortina offers more than just alpine lakes and mountain hikes. Enjoy shopping, gastronomy, and entertainment of all kinds. For those who want a rounded luxury Dolomites experience, this is the place to start.

[Photo Credit:Piotr Guzik via Unsplash]

a large lake reflects the green trees and cloudy sky in the Dolomites

Val Gardena/Gröden

an italian espresso in the foreground and a ski resort in the background Dolomites Italy

This is the perfect place for those who want to leave their own transport behind and explore as much as they can from one spot. The beautiful Val Gardena boasts a colorful Ladin culture making it a truly unique experience. This culture-rich valley enjoys a slightly longer summer than other areas- often staying open until mid-October. It also features the most famous ski slopes – Sella Ronda. A network of cable cars and ski lifts connect 300 slopes, meaning you can ski all day without repeating a run.

[Photo Credit: Vlado Sestan via Unsplash]

Top Sites:
Seceda Ridgeline– a jaw-dropping photo opportunity, the ridge is a two-hour hike from the gondola or a 5hr hike from the bottom.
Passo Pordoi– the highest surfaced road through a pass- you can take a cable car to the top and find yourself between the Sella and Marmolada peaks.
Monte Pic/ Pitschberg– not as well known, but you will be rewarded with stunning 360 views of the more famous peaks and you won’t have to share the view with anyone else.

Towns to Stay In:
Ortisei/ St Ulrich– the busiest town in Val Gardena because it’s the perfect home base. With several different chairlifts to the top peaks located in the center of town, you don’t need to worry about driving around to reach the amazing views.
Santa Cristina/St Christina– a tiny town located near Ortisei which gives you access to many of the lesser-known trails with fewer people.

[Photo Credit: Giorgi Shakarashvili via Unsplash]

an imposing mountain ridge with a sheer drop on one side and soft grassy hills on the other and imposing mountains in the background Dolomites Italy

Alta Badia/Hochabtai

grassy hills with a little hamlet in the center give way to forest and then imposing grey mountains in the Dolomites Italy

If you only have a short stay in the Dolomites then Alta Badia is the perfect place to spend it. This area features magical fairytale-like valleys, romantic locales, superb food, and extreme sports. Closely connected with Val Gardena, you’ll find some of the Sella Ronda slopes and the unique Ladin culture here as well. Enjoy the storybook landscapes, wellness facilities, and quiet alpine luxury.

[Photo Credit:Massimiliano Coradini via Unsplash]

Top Sites:
Piz Boè– the highest peak of the Sella massif- this can be a challenging climb but the on-top-of-the-world feeling is worth it.
Sasso di Santa Croce/ Ciaval– a breathtaking hike considered one of the most beautiful in the area. With a huge abundance of flora and fauna and mind-boggling views over the lush green valley.
Cascate del Pisciadù– a picturesque hike through wildflower meadows lead to this thin 150m waterfall. This short hike is about an hour each way and can be done at a leisurely pace.

Towns to Stay In:
Corvara/Kurfar is located in the very center. It features many gondolas up to the peaks and is close enough to walk to the nearby villages. You can also enjoy any of the Michelin Star restaurants or play a round of golf at the club.
San Vigilio di Marebbe/ Vigil in Enneberg– a gateway to the Fanes-Sennes natural park this tiny hamlet emphasizes the romantic contrast between the wild and tame landscapes.

Alpe di Siusi/Seiser Alm

a green valley of hills with imposing craggy grey mountains in the background Dolomites Italy

The largest alpine meadow in Europe, with green rolling hills, wooden cabins, and not a car in sight. You can explore the meadows and pastures on horseback, between the scattered farms, or even go bathing in Lake Fie. Gentle soft green meadows and legends of witches and elves make this a delightful spot, especially for families.

[Photo Credit: Pietro de Grandi via Unsplash]

Towns to Stay In:
Castelrotto/Kastelruth– the largest village at the foot of the region. A resort town that features a family-friendly ski park in the winter and a crisscrossing series of trailheads in the summer.
Tires/ Tiers– a holiday village that is the definition of ensconcing yourself in nature. This tiny hamlet is best explored in summer with the many trails and climbing routes.
Bolzano/Bozen– though not strictly in the area, Alpe di Siusi can be easily reached from the large city of Bolzano. This is truly a bustling city with castles, museums, and the opportunity to see the famous Iceman.

[Photo Credit:Lukas Leitner via Unsplash]

looking at a flower dotted grassy meadow with wooden huts and imposing craggy grey mountains in the background in the Dolomites Italy

The Dolomites offer so many options and so much to explore it’s definitely an Italian destination you will want to visit again and again. If you feel inspired to plan a mountain adventure and need help choosing the best itinerary – let us know!

What’s it like to Visit Florence right now?

August 25, 2020 by Ann Petronio

Have you been wondering what it’s like to visit some of the most popular tourist destinations right now, when crowds have disappeared? I’ve been fascinated to hear what’s changed, what’s stayed the same, and what kind of atmosphere the cities have. Our marketing assistant, Liz, moved to Northern Italy last year and has spent the 2020 lock-down in a small town near Bologna. When the inter-province travel restrictions lifted in June she decided to make the most of it and take a day trip to Florence in early July! Here’s her experience:

One of the best things about living in Italy is that all these amazingly famous cities are only a short train ride away! Our train to Florence took just over an hour. (Having grown up in the Southwest, where you can drive 4 hours and still be in the same state, this continues to amaze me!) Masks are required on the train and every other seat is blocked off to facilitate social distance. This means even though we booked our four tickets together, each person had their own two-seat row.

Travel restrictions and regulations have turned Florence from a tourist hot-spot into a typical bustling city. There were still people enjoying the sunny piazzas, the grand churches, and walking along the beautiful Arno river, but fewer crowds and with a more local vibe. We knew this was going to be a quick visit of walking around the city and seeing things from the outside, so we were excited to find this more relaxed feeling.

looking at a ornately decorated marble church door on the streets of Florence Italy

When you’re walking around Florence it’s easy to really enjoy the city — there’s beautiful ancient architecture and churches around every corner, and now there is a sense of being a local

Of course, there were some noticeable changes…

Currently, masks are required inside buildings and after 6pm. Out on the streets, you see a mix of people wearing and not wearing masks. We tended to keep ours on in more crowded spots and walked without them where there were fewer or no people.

Although most businesses were open, a huge change is that the churches are no longer open on the weekdays. With the exceptions of the Duomo and San Lorenzo, most of the churches around the city were closed. Serendipitously this worked out for us since we forgot to dress in church-appropriate clothing anyway. Florence is a city of churches but if you’re a woman with bare shoulders or bare calves you are not allowed inside.

Our first stop was Florence’s most famous attraction: Piazza del Duomo. It’s famous for a reason — an absolute must-see that makes such a huge impact. Here you could really see the difference in the number of tourists. Having been to Florence once before in the off-season, I was still amazed at how empty it was!

a street view of the Florence Duomo and the street artists next to it

There are still the artists selling their renditions of the grand cathedral and although we didn’t have the place all to ourselves, we could take the time to appreciate the facades of these amazing structures. There are so many little details to appreciate as you walk around it.

Most impressive was how easily we were able to see the Gates of Paradise on the Baptistery. These amazing golden doors usually have a huge crowd in front of them so being able to go and look at the details for as long as we liked was a treat.

a woman lays down in an almost empty courtyard in front of Santa Croce Florence Italy

Like the Duomo, Piazzale Michelangelo and Santa Croce were practically empty.

Piazzale Michelangelo does involve a lot of stair climbing, especially when the bus schedule has become less….scheduled. But climbing the steps up this hill is so worth it. The view is stunning and we were able to enjoy the many many stairs and views of the city almost by ourselves!

a drawing of the city of Florence and the panoramic view to match

Regardless of the tourist levels, I recommend this view. You’re able to see the whole city laid out, really appreciate the massive size of the Duomo, and glimpse the mountains in the distance.

looking up at the marble facade of the church San Miniato al Monte in Florence Italy

For an extra level of stunning (and more stairs), head up to Abbazia di San Miniato al Monte. This beautiful church sits just a little way up from the Piazzale.

Of course, it was closed. So when we arrived at the top of the steps the entire courtyard was empty. There’s something very relaxing about sitting in the shadow of a huge old church enjoying the panoramic view of the city. It’s a great spot to recuperate as you prepare to walk back down the hill.

On our way from the Duomo to Piazza della Signoria, we stopped off at the famous Il Porcellino fountain. Superstition says that rubbing the boar’s snout will bring good luck and ensure a return to Florence! We tentatively touched the shiny snout and then immediately sanitized thoroughly.

closeup of the bronze boar pig statue Il Porcellino in Florence Italy

It was nice to participate in a truly touristy Florentine tradition that stretches back to at least the 1700s. But maybe sanitizing after touching a communal boar is a change we should keep.

There are some areas of Florence essentially unchanged by COVID. Piazza della Signoria was a bustling town square. There were horses available for carriage rides and lots of people sitting around the steps. Considering the Piazza is adjacent to the Uffizi Gallery (which boasted a huge line) this was unsurprising. However, we were surprised to find the wait time for an un-reserved ticket at the Galleria dell’Acadamia was still over an hour! An hour in the hot sun when you only have a day? We decided to try again another time. It just goes to show – no matter when you’re visiting Florence – book your museum tickets in advance.

There was only one place in Florence that truly had that crowded, touristy feel: Ponte Vecchio. Families and large groups traversed the famous old bridge and peered into the glittering jewelry shops on either side.

There was a rotation of photo takers getting that stunning view down the Arno river. It was a 50/50 split on wearing masks. We kept ours on while moving through the crowds but took them off to snap a quick pic.

three women posing on ponte vecchio Florence

Almost as soon as we reached the other side of the bridge, the crowds dissipated. Once again Florence felt like a bustling and inviting city.

Overall our day in Florence was well spent, walking around 14k (!) in total trying to see it all! We felt safe and enjoyed being able to see the city with more local vibes. There was a lot of construction and I think the city is taking this time to ensure everything is perfect when all travelers are allowed to visit.

Florence is essentially a timeless city, there are still aperitivos (though sadly without the buffet), there are still piazzas and people sitting and enjoying the beauty at every turn.

delicious cone of gelato in Florence Italy

And most importantly: you can still go for some of the best gelato I’ve had in Italy.

A Winter Honeymoon in Northern Italy

January 21, 2020 by Ann Petronio

Shannon and Lou were excited to have a Christmas Honeymoon in northern Italy. They wanted to see the beauty of the snowy Dolomites and Swiss Alps while still experiencing a few classic Italian spots like Venice, Milan, and Bologna! I was so pleased to hear they enjoyed the delicious food and the stunning landscapes Northern Italy has to offer.

Here’s their trip report:

Hi Ann!

We had an AMAZING time!! We loved every part of the trip.

The Venice hotel [Ca’ Sagredo Hotel] was perfect, very accommodating and they gave us great dinner recommendations for local restaurants to avoid the touristy spots.

We absolutely loved the
trip to the Dolomites

[also featured at the top photo]

as well as the guided walking tour and the walking food tour. The only thing that I would maybe tell future guests is the Venice walking food tour was a little heavy on the alcohol (full glass of wine at every stop), which is definitely not a problem, but I could see how it might be if lunch or afternoon drinks before the tour were consumed lol. Regardless we loved it and had a great time but just something to keep in mind!

Bologna was also great, food was absolutely fantastic and we really enjoyed exploring the city. We LOVED the foody tour to Modena with the winery, balsamic vinegar tour and Parmesan cheese. This tour was one of our favorites by far. The lunch provided was excellent.

The hotel in Bologna [Starhotels Excelsior] was good, the only thing I would maybe warn other guests of is that they do allow smoking in this hotel. We were on a non smoking floor but regardless I think it would be bothersome to some who have asthma/other sensitivities. The proximity to the train station here was very convenient for traveling.

We spent the day on Sunday walking up to San Luca from the hotel, which is definitely more than a workout but the views are incredible and highly recommend to anyone else traveling to Bologna with some free time!

Finally, Milan and our trip to the Swiss Alps were absolutely stunning!

I would recommend anyone taking this trip to find something open to eat in advance to getting on the bus at 0700 in Milan. There was a small stop for coffee/snacks but pretty limited. You were right that most things were closed on 12/24 and 12/25.

We also found that mostly everything was closed on the 26th as well- public holiday. Regardless by this point in the trip we were tired and just really happy to relax. It was nice to walk around the city on Christmas without all of the crowds of people.

This hotel [Chateau Monfort] was excellent. Staff went above and beyond for us for dinner recommendations and anything else that we needed. Spa here is also excellent if you have future guests looking for that experience- they allow you to use the sauna, salt pool, relaxation room without booking a treatment. I know we discussed with you already but by the 26th we were just kind of done with the tours and decided not to go to Turin, although I’m sure it would have been lovely. We had a great detox day in the spa in its place 🙂

I don’t think there is much we would have done differently! The transfers to and from the airports were extremely helpful to have booked in advance. Additionally, traveling by train between cities was very easy.

Thank you for all of your assistance and guidance! We can’t wait to plan our next trip!!

Wishing you a happy and healthy New Year!

Shannon and Lou