The Diversity of The Dolomites

May 11, 2021 by Ann Petronio

Dolomites Guide Pin — *Pin it for Later!*

Le Dolomiti aren’t generally top of mind for Americans planning an Italian adventure but they should definitely be added to the list. Located along the Italian-Austrian border, just a few hours north of Venice, the Dolomites offer a breath of fresh air and scenery that will leave you speechless. Jagged pale mountains tower over green rolling hills, towns and villages mix Austrian Chalets with sunny Italian piazzas, medieval churches, and modern world-renowned restaurants. Reliable snowfall creates a winter wonderland of luxury ski resorts and breathtaking snowshoeing paths, while the lush alpine meadows burst into bloom along the hundreds of hiking trails and glacial lakes in the summer. These mountains are a nature lover’s paradise, but you don’t have to be an expert hiker or mountaineer to enjoy the trails, which range from leisurely walks to rock climbing. The Dolomites are a great travel alternative to the Swiss Alps and the perfect starting or ending to your adventure around “The Boot.”

The Basics

looking down on a winding road surrounded by trees

Getting Oriented: If you’re not familiar with exactly where the Dolomites are, that’s okay. You’re not alone. Here’s a helpful map to put the general location in perspective.

Getting Around: The closest airports available are either Venice or Innsbruck and from there you’ll need to take a bus, train, or car into the mountains. Towns both large and small are connected by a network of bus and rail lines, so getting around without a car isn’t impossible. However, if you want to be on your own schedule and arrive early at the more popular sights, we recommend renting a car. The famous Grande Strada Delle Dolomiti cuts through three alpine passes and is one of the most beautiful scenic roads in Europe. With lots of twists and turns without being too hair-raising, driving this road is reason enough to rent a car — just make sure you get an International Driver’s Permit before you arrive!

[Photo Credit: Luke Stackpoole via Unsplash]

Weather- the Dolomites are characterized by short summers and snowy winters. Though both seasons enjoy brilliant sunshine since the Dolomites receive more sun than any other region of the Alps. There are two peak tourist seasons: the height of summer and the depth of winter. In the in-between seasons, you’ll find very few crowds but unpredictable weather, and most businesses and mountain huts closed. Summer Season begins in mid-June and lasts through August for warm sunny days. For all things snowy, the winter season lasts from December until the last snow in early April.

an imposing spire mountain towers above a small local Inn in the Dolomites Italy

Rifugio – in addition to the range of wellness spas, hotels, chalets, and alpine cabins, the Dolomites give you the option of staying in a rifugio. Meaning refuge, these small inns are dotted along the trails in the heart of the mountains. When hiking from peak to peak you can stop for a delicious warm meal, a hot shower, and a bed for the night. You’re always welcome to stop in for a bite, but beds will have to be reserved well in advance. Rifugios are only open during the peak seasons and range from a dorm bed to romantic private rooms. Waking up to see the sunrise while ensconced in the mountain peaks makes staying at least one night in a rifugio a must-do when hiking in the Dolomites.

[Photo Credit:Ruud Luijten via Unsplash]

Multiple Languages – due to its diverse history of cultures and borders, the Dolomites have four official languages: Italian, German, Ladin, and Friulan. German and Italian are spoken equally depending on the town and the person. In this case, multiple languages mean at least two names for each place! The German and the Italian names often don’t resemble each other in the slightest. While the buses and s,.[igns will have both the German and Italian versions when you ask the locals you may only get one or the other. We recommend noting down both names to help minimize your confusion.

Where to Stay

With 26 mountain ranges stretching across five provinces, the Dolomites cover a lot of ground. To make sure you don’t spend more time driving than experiencing, we recommend selecting only 2-3 areas to explore during your trip. The most popular regions in the Dolomites can be broken up into about 5 slightly overlapping areas, each with diverse highlights but all with stunning beauty and excellent outdoor activities.

Alta Pusteria/ Hochpusterta

a beautiful mountain lake surrounded by grey jagged mountains in the Dolomites Italy

In the north-eastern corner, bordering Austria is the very popular area of Alta Pusteria. Along with the charming romantic towns and impressive mountain views, you’ll find a focus on wellness, gastronomy, and some of the most Instagram-famous sights. Alta Pusteria is perfect for tiny churches, extensive bike paths, exploring castles, enjoying lakes, and taking a restorative bath in the sulfurous waters.

[Photo Credit: Jonas Verstuyft via Unsplash]

Top Sites:
Lago di Braies/Pragser Wildsee– the most famous and most beautiful lake in the Dolomites – enjoy the turquoise water by taking the 3.5km easy walking circuit around it, hire a boat to explore from its center or brave a swim in the glacial waters.
Tre Cime/Drei Zinnen– the poster picture for the Dolomites, these three tall spires have created their own holiday region and national park. You could spend days hiking the trails in and around them, though their main circuit is a 3hr 10.5km trail. Head counterclockwise on the circuit for the best views from within or get an amazing view of the peaks themselves from the steep trail in Val Fiscalina to Rifugio Locatelli.

Towns to Stay in:
Dobbiaco/Toblach – the largest and oldest town in the region. This charming village is the closest hub to Lago di Braies. Austrian cottages and luxury food await your stay.
San Candido/Innichen– a delightfully small hamlet close to the Austrian border but still with an Italian piazza in its center. It is often called The Gem of Val Pusteria.

[Photo Credit: Jeison Higuita via Unsplash]

a turquoise lake reflecting a stoney mountain and surrounding forest with a line of wooden boats and boathouse on Lago di Braies Italy

Belluno/Belum

looking down on a small town between two imposing mountains in the Dolomites Italy

Often considered the gateway to the Dolomites, Belluno is a perfect base for exploring the eastern range. Eighty percent of the mountains are in the Belluno province so the sites to see are extensive. Glaciers, waterfalls, forests, and shopping, Belluno offers a lot of options, making it the perfect spot for those who want to try a bit of everything.

[Photo Credit: Julian Villella via Unsplash]

Top Sights
Rifugio Nuvolau– The oldest rifugio in the Dolomites and one of the best balcony views of the mountains.
Lago di Sorapis/Sorapissee– the slightly hidden lake is a two-hour hike from Cortina but worth the otherworldly views.
Lago Misurina/Misurinasee– clear water reflects the contours of the craggy mountains in this Pearl of the Dolomites. Easily reached from Alta Pusteria, this lake’s special microclimate makes it a center for respiratory health.
Val di Zoldo– a small alpine valley that is the heart of the mountaineers’ villages. This hidden gem is not very busy, so it feels very authentic and genuine. From here you can take the trail to Lago Coldai for a swim.
Monte Cristallo/Hohe Schneide– in the center of the Dolomites, this mountain features four peaks that can be reached by cable car, mountaineering, or skiing.

Towns to Stay In:
Cortina d’Ampezzo– the most famous town around, often called the Queen of the Dolomites. Cortina is the jet-set, trendy and worldly fashionista town nestled in mountainous craggy spires. Not only can you easily get to Tre Cime and Lago di Braies from northerly Cortina, but you can also access a huge number of amazing peaks. But Cortina offers more than just alpine lakes and mountain hikes. Enjoy shopping, gastronomy, and entertainment of all kinds. For those who want a rounded luxury Dolomites experience, this is the place to start.

[Photo Credit:Piotr Guzik via Unsplash]

a large lake reflects the green trees and cloudy sky in the Dolomites

Val Gardena/Gröden

an italian espresso in the foreground and a ski resort in the background Dolomites Italy

This is the perfect place for those who want to leave their own transport behind and explore as much as they can from one spot. The beautiful Val Gardena boasts a colorful Ladin culture making it a truly unique experience. This culture-rich valley enjoys a slightly longer summer than other areas- often staying open until mid-October. It also features the most famous ski slopes – Sella Ronda. A network of cable cars and ski lifts connect 300 slopes, meaning you can ski all day without repeating a run.

[Photo Credit: Vlado Sestan via Unsplash]

Top Sites:
Seceda Ridgeline– a jaw-dropping photo opportunity, the ridge is a two-hour hike from the gondola or a 5hr hike from the bottom.
Passo Pordoi– the highest surfaced road through a pass- you can take a cable car to the top and find yourself between the Sella and Marmolada peaks.
Monte Pic/ Pitschberg– not as well known, but you will be rewarded with stunning 360 views of the more famous peaks and you won’t have to share the view with anyone else.

Towns to Stay In:
Ortisei/ St Ulrich– the busiest town in Val Gardena because it’s the perfect home base. With several different chairlifts to the top peaks located in the center of town, you don’t need to worry about driving around to reach the amazing views.
Santa Cristina/St Christina– a tiny town located near Ortisei which gives you access to many of the lesser-known trails with fewer people.

[Photo Credit: Giorgi Shakarashvili via Unsplash]

an imposing mountain ridge with a sheer drop on one side and soft grassy hills on the other and imposing mountains in the background Dolomites Italy

Alta Badia/Hochabtai

grassy hills with a little hamlet in the center give way to forest and then imposing grey mountains in the Dolomites Italy

If you only have a short stay in the Dolomites then Alta Badia is the perfect place to spend it. This area features magical fairytale-like valleys, romantic locales, superb food, and extreme sports. Closely connected with Val Gardena, you’ll find some of the Sella Ronda slopes and the unique Ladin culture here as well. Enjoy the storybook landscapes, wellness facilities, and quiet alpine luxury.

[Photo Credit:Massimiliano Coradini via Unsplash]

Top Sites:
Piz Boè– the highest peak of the Sella massif- this can be a challenging climb but the on-top-of-the-world feeling is worth it.
Sasso di Santa Croce/ Ciaval– a breathtaking hike considered one of the most beautiful in the area. With a huge abundance of flora and fauna and mind-boggling views over the lush green valley.
Cascate del Pisciadù– a picturesque hike through wildflower meadows lead to this thin 150m waterfall. This short hike is about an hour each way and can be done at a leisurely pace.

Towns to Stay In:
Corvara/Kurfar is located in the very center. It features many gondolas up to the peaks and is close enough to walk to the nearby villages. You can also enjoy any of the Michelin Star restaurants or play a round of golf at the club.
San Vigilio di Marebbe/ Vigil in Enneberg– a gateway to the Fanes-Sennes natural park this tiny hamlet emphasizes the romantic contrast between the wild and tame landscapes.

Alpe di Siusi/Seiser Alm

a green valley of hills with imposing craggy grey mountains in the background Dolomites Italy

The largest alpine meadow in Europe, with green rolling hills, wooden cabins, and not a car in sight. You can explore the meadows and pastures on horseback, between the scattered farms, or even go bathing in Lake Fie. Gentle soft green meadows and legends of witches and elves make this a delightful spot, especially for families.

[Photo Credit: Pietro de Grandi via Unsplash]

Towns to Stay In:
Castelrotto/Kastelruth– the largest village at the foot of the region. A resort town that features a family-friendly ski park in the winter and a crisscrossing series of trailheads in the summer.
Tires/ Tiers– a holiday village that is the definition of ensconcing yourself in nature. This tiny hamlet is best explored in summer with the many trails and climbing routes.
Bolzano/Bozen– though not strictly in the area, Alpe di Siusi can be easily reached from the large city of Bolzano. This is truly a bustling city with castles, museums, and the opportunity to see the famous Iceman.

[Photo Credit:Lukas Leitner via Unsplash]

looking at a flower dotted grassy meadow with wooden huts and imposing craggy grey mountains in the background in the Dolomites Italy

The Dolomites offer so many options and so much to explore it’s definitely an Italian destination you will want to visit again and again. If you feel inspired to plan a mountain adventure and need help choosing the best itinerary – let us know!

Sometimes Even the Best-Laid Plans Go a Little Sideways

December 8, 2020 by Ann Petronio

For our first real vacation during COVID, my husband and I planned a long-weekend getaway to Colorado. We wanted to spend a few days in Rocky Mountain National Park, visit a quintessential ski town (Vail) and go hiking in the Garden of the Gods. The idea was that we’d stay away from cities like Denver and Colorado Springs, and spend all of our time social-distancing in the great outdoors. Happy to finally have a trip to plan, I spent hours researching great hotels, making dinner reservations at interesting restaurants, and mapping out some scenic drives.

Then, because it’s 2020 after all, things took an unexpected turn.

Raging wildfires in and around Rocky Mountain National Park meant we had to scrap our visit there and re-plan the first half of the trip at the last-minute. And then an early-season snowstorm drove us down out of the mountains in the middle of our trip, and left us scrambling to come up with a “plan B” for the last two days. In the end, we did not actually follow through with a single thing I had pre-booked (hotels, restaurants, etc.) but we managed to have a pretty wonderful getaway nonetheless.

selfie of Annie and her husband in the snowy landscape of Garden of the Gods Colorado

And I think it was a valuable reminder that travel is all about your attitude — if you can roll with the punches, and enjoy the unexpected adventures along the way, you’re going to be a lot happier overall.

Here’s what we ended up doing:
{and if you want any info about the original plans, just let me know!}

We flew from Providence to Denver (via Charlotte) and were interested to see that crowds got heavier as we went along. The Providence airport was empty, Charlotte felt like it had maybe half the usual number of people, and the Denver airport was very busy. Everyone wore masks, the flight crew handed out little bags with hand sanitizer and snacks, and overall we felt pretty safe.

When we landed in Denver we picked up a nice big SUV and drove about 15 minutes away to the Rocky Mountain Arsenal National Wildlife Refuge. This is a true hidden gem – right outside the city, and so close to the airport, with free admission from sunrise to sunset.

The refuge is over 15,000 acres in total, and we did the scenic 11-mile auto loop through the park (you can also stop and do various hikes along the way).

taking photos of bison from the car at the Rocky Mountain Arsenal National Wildlife Refuge near Denver Colorado

We downloaded the free app that gave us turn-by-turn narration of everything we were passing through, and we got to see buffalo, prairie dogs, deer, and more. It was an awesome introduction to the area, and I would highly recommend it on your way in or out of Denver.

From there, we drove an hour to Golden, Colorado, in the foothills of the Rockies.

a man in a blue jacket with the sculpture of a fish, a river and green trees in the background in Golden Colorado

The town is famous for being the home of Coors Brewing, but it’s a cute place in its own right, and I was really impressed with all the public art – there were sculptures on every street corner. The brewery is unfortunately not open for tours right now, but we enjoyed strolling through town and had a great dinner at Woody’s Pizza. The altitude was already kicking our butts, so we had an early bedtime and a restless sleep.

The next morning we left Golden in cold and icy conditions and took a scenic route through the mountains to Aspen. Having never been to the Rockies before, we absolutely loved this drive, with its mountain passes, changing elevations, and expansive plains. By the time we arrived in Aspen, it was sunny and in the 60s, which was totally unexpected!

the pools, hot tubs and outdoor patio of the Limelight Aspen hotel with the mountains and pine trees looming in the background

We checked into a lovely room at the Limelight Aspen (I would recommend this hotel highly) and headed out to explore the town.

Although I’m not a skier, I would go back to Aspen again in a minute. The compact downtown has cute shops and galleries, with the ski mountains looming right next door, and there are gorgeous hiking/biking trails that start right in the center of town.

a paved path through beautiful tall trees with yellow leaves in Aspen Colorado

We did a very pretty walk on the East Rio Grande Trail, which included a stroll through the John Denver Sanctuary. The restaurant scene is fabulous, as you would expect, and we enjoyed cocktails and lunch at The White House Tavern, and a delicious dinner on the outdoor patio at Tatanka.

The next day we were back on the road through the Rockies to Breckenridge (about 2 ½ hours). Where Aspen had felt upscale, quiet and luxurious, Breckenridge felt like a spring break destination. To be fair, the weather was positively springlike, so everyone was outdoors, but it was crowded and busy and felt a little unsafe given the pandemic. We checked into an unremarkable hotel, ate an average lunch, and decided to check back out and head down out of the mountains before the impending snow storm.

We were able to grab last-minute reservations at a very nice Colorado Springs hotel, so we booked our last two nights there. The Mining Exchange is a charming historic hotel in the middle of the city, walkable to tons of restaurants and we knew we didn’t want to have to drive anywhere once the storm arrived.

two people in front of the Garden of the Gods sign in the snow in Colorado

The snow started early the next morning, but we were still able to sneak in a quick visit to the Garden of the Gods. We were VERY glad to have a big heavy four-wheel drive SUV (and a native New Englander’s experience driving in snow) because there were lots of little rental sedans sliding all over the roads in the park.

the impressive red rock formations with a snowy landscape below at Garden of the Gods Colorado

But we enjoyed a snowy walk through the monumental rocks and a quick stop at the Visitor’s Center for context. The park is gorgeous, and admission is free, and it would be well-worth a much longer visit in better weather.

Back in Colorado Springs that afternoon we had a yummy lunch (and a flight of craft beers) at Colorado Craft, and a lazy afternoon watching football.

Our drive back to the airport the next morning was a white-knuckler, as the snow had continued through the night and the roads were not yet treated or plowed (which really surprised me, in a place that presumably gets lots of snow and should know how to deal with it). We eventually made it to the Denver airport, and back home to Providence, without incident.

a beautiful stream lined with fall foliage and light streaming through in Aspen Colorado

All in all, we loved Colorado, and we would happily go back to see the things we missed – especially Rocky Mountain National Park. The unexpected and unplanned things along the way more than made up for the stress that Mother Nature threw at us, and it was honestly just wonderful to be traveling again 😊

No Need to “Rough it” in the Rockies

October 13, 2020 by Ann Petronio

Finding Luxury in the Canadian Rockies Pin — *Pin it for Later!*

The Canadian Rocky Mountains, particularly Banff, should be on any travel bucket list. Blue glacial lakes, snow-capped mountains, and an abundance of wildlife stretch across five national parks. The Rockies truly are that beautiful, and you’ll find Instagram-worthy vistas around every corner!

While visiting the area you can experience a whole range of activities, during all four seasons, and for all ages and skill levels. But the best part of visiting the Rockies is getting to enjoy true luxury and relaxation in such a breathtaking natural setting.

Banff

One of the most popular parks, Banff is about a two-hour drive from Calgary and makes an excellent home base for a week in the Rockies.

Banff offers some of the best hiking trails (leading to awe-inspiring views), beautiful forests, and waterfalls.

[Photo Credit: Chris Rees via Unsplash]

Enjoy the view of huge snow-capped mountains and lush evergreen forest when you hikethe Canadian Rockies

You can paddle on the Bow River or Lake Minnewanka in your kayak, canoe, or stand-up paddle board. Go stargazing, take a boat cruise, or a gondola ride up to a spectacular panoramic observation deck, cafe, and restaurant.

after climbing up the rock face you can sit back an enjoy the stunning view of the Canadian Rockies

Whether you enjoy an easy stroll, a round of golf with a mountainous backdrop or scaling the side of a cliff, Banff has adventures for all levels.

[Photo Credit: Fairmont Hotels]

Banff Springs Hotel

And when you return from your outdoor adventures each evening? Kick off your boots, enjoy a hot soak and a gourmet meal in the “Castle of the Rockies”: The Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel. Built in 1888 and modeled after a Scottish Castle, the Banff Springs Hotel is a destination in itself that combines luxury and history!

a bed with a view at the Banff Springs Hotel in the Canadian Rockies

Under the eaves of this impressive building, you’ll have picture-perfect views when you wake up in your luxurious bed. Head out for an easy morning hike to the roaring waterfalls. Return to Banff for your choice from dozens of restaurants, each with delicious, locally inspired menus.

[Photo Credit: Fairmont Hotels]

Take the rest of the day to relax in their spa, or head to the concierge to look through their 26-page activities book! End your day chilling out on their front terrace, with the light cutting across the crevices of the huge mountains and dancing across the tops of the trees as you breathe the wonderfully fresh, crisp mountain air.

Lake Louise

[Photo Credit: Wenhao Ji via Unsplash]

If a lake view is more your idea of bliss, we recommend heading a bit further north to Lake Louise. And what better way to enjoy the lake than with a view from your balcony? The luxurious Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise is a grand hotel situated right on the lake. It has been a luxury vacation destination since its opening in the 1890’s. Paddle on the stunning blue waters surrounded by mountain peaks or go ice skating in the winter!

In winter, you can also enjoy dog sled tours, sleigh rides, and skiing in the quintessential winter wonderland. Soft fluffy snow, evergreen trees, and hot chocolate by the fire waiting for you when you return.

[Photo Credit: Fairmont Hotels]

a horse-drawn sliegh ride set in the white fluffy snow, towering mountains and evergreen forest of the Canadian Rockies

horseback riding along the lake with a beautiful mountainous backdrop in the Canadian Rockies

Summer and Fall at Lake Louise are equally enticing. You can enjoy a variety of hiking and biking trails, horseback riding alongside the lake, and white water rafting.

[Photo Credit: Fairmont Hotels]

Wherever you look, amazing views and pampering service await your stay at Lake Louise. Staying here at the Fairmont saves you the hassle of trying to find lake-side parking, or even worse, having to park a few miles away!

Their many restaurants offer table-side views of the lake and the surrounding mountains. The interior is elegant and polished, calm and inviting. Picnic on the dock, or enjoy a glass of wine on the expansive verandas that the Fairmont offers.

This is taking your classic lake vacation to the next level of scenery and luxury.

[Photo Credit: Fairmont Hotels]

a dining room table with a view of the stunning blue waters and huge snow-capped mountains at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise in the Canadian Rockies

Getting There

While flying into Victoria or Calgary and renting a car to drive yourself up to the Rockies is always an option, one of the best ways to get to the Canadian Rockies is to take the train! Any of the two or three-day routes from Victoria into the mountains are the perfect way to fully enjoy the views and learn about the local wildlife without having to worry about car rentals or traffic.

[Photo Credit: Rocky Mountaineer]

The Rocky Mountaineer offers 360-degree views on your journey through lush forests, over deep river gorges, through mountain tunnels, and alongside blue lakes. You can travel from Victoria to Banff, Lake Louise or Jasper (with a stop or two along the way), then stay a few days in the destination before flying home. Or, consider making it a round-trip train extravaganza!

Any seat on the Rocky Mountaineer has stunning views, overhead windows, and access to an outdoor viewing platform. Splurging a little extra for their Goldleaf seats will give you complete 360-degree rounded domes so you don’t miss a thing. Both levels (silver and gold) have hosts to answers questions, tell you stories about the landscape, and point out the wildlife.

[Photo Credit: Rocky Mountaineer]

the interior of the Rocky Mountaineer train with domed glass giving passengers a 360 degree view of the Canadian Rockies

The Rocky Mountaineer doesn’t travel at night so you won’t miss a single moment of the beautiful scenery. Instead, included in your trip, are stays in lovely hotels along the way. Taking the train ensures luxury throughout the journey — not just at the final destination.

Conclusion

You shouldn’t have to choose between incredible outdoorsy experiences and luxurious relaxation. The Rocky Mountains offer the best of all worlds, bringing luxury into your journey, your stay, and your surroundings. While we can’t yet travel to Canada from the US (due to current COVID restrictions) advance planning for a bucket list trip like this is always recommended!

Let us know if you were inspired by this post when you plan with us and we can offer special perks at both of the Fairmont properties — such as extended check in/out hours, a room upgrade if available; $100 CAD food and beverage credit (Banff) OR a professional portrait taken during stay with souvenir photo frame (Lake Louise)! We’re excited to help plan your ‘escape’ to the Canadian Rockies!

Ski Destinations for the Nonskier

December 9, 2009 by Ann Petronio Leave a Comment

I freely admit that the allure of skiing escapes me.

I used to ski, when I was in high school and college, but it was definitely more about the apres-ski activities and less about the slopes themselves. And now, older and wiser, I just prefer to skip the whole thing altogether and vacation somewhere warmer.

But I do certainly work with clients on ski vacations, and have seen my share of families in conflict over what to do about the nonskiers (or the “not-fully-committed, might ski if it’s really nice and sunny out” skiers), so I was interested to see this article in USA Today about the best ski resorts for nonskiers.

I’ve only been to one of them personally (Stowe, VT), but I do agree with that choice. What do you think about the others?

The Diversity of The Dolomites

The Basics