I turned fifty this month, and had done a LOT of advance thinking about what I wanted to do to celebrate this milestone. The fact that it would involve travel was a given, but I just couldn’t decide where to go. Until I received an invitation from AmaWaterways for a wine-themed cruise on the Danube, departing a few days after my birthday! That was a no-brainer, because I’ve always wanted to try a river cruise; it visited three countries that were new to me; and…well….WINE 😊
Misconceptions About River Cruises
If you’ve not yet done a river cruise, you’ve probably got some of the same pre-conceptions that I did. I figured I’d be the youngest person on the ship, and that it would be a fairly quiet/relaxing experience. I downloaded a half-dozen books to bring with me, because I assumed there’d be nothing to do at night. All of which was fine. And all of which turned out to be incorrect!
This “old person’s” cruise kicked my fairly-active butt. We were seeing/doing things from dawn to dusk. With opportunities to hike, bike, and explore (independently and with a group). We ate fabulous multi-course meals, we drank lots of great wine and beer. And at the end of the very full days, all I wanted to do was fall into bed at 9:30/10:00 pm. They offered nightly entertainment, but I only made it to the lounge once to check it out! It also bears mentioning that I was NOT the youngest person on this sailing. There were definitely some couples in their 30s and 40s, and the majority were in their 50s and 60s. True “seniors” were probably the minority.
AmaWaterways blew me away. And what I now know is that their cruises are aimed at a more active demographic. They do attract more 40- and 50-somethings, with their easy 7-night itineraries, included wine/beer/internet, and onboard gyms, and bikes. The food and the service were far better than anything I’ve experienced on an ocean cruise. Plus,the more intimate size (approx. 160 people) makes it really easy to meet interesting people. I am a total convert, and am already planning my next river cruise!
If you want the details of this trip, scroll down. And if you want to skip ahead to the photos, here’s a link to the entire gallery, taken by my very talented husband.
Our cruise on the AmaSerena was a 7-day “Romantic Danube” itinerary. Sailing from Vilshofen to Budapest, with the added bonus of an onboard wine expert and a handful of special wine tasting experiences along the way. The dates (November 13 – 20) were just before the official beginning of Christmas Market season in Europe (this usually starts around the 20th). But, because of the weather, a couple of cities/towns started their markets a week early and we were able to experience that as well. A totally unexpected bonus!
We flew into Munich a day early, arriving on Sunday morning. So that we could see a little bit of that city, and adjust to the time difference. Arrival in Munich was super easy. It’s a big, modern airport, and we had a private driver waiting for us in the arrivals hall. The ride into the city was about 45 minutes, and it would also be easy to take the train if you prefer.
Our hotel – the Sofitel Munich Bayerpost — was right next door to the main train station (the Hauptbahnhof). A very central location, walkable to just about everything you’d want to see/do. Service was very friendly, our room was ready and we were able to check in at 10 am! The rooms are modern, spacious and light, and the bed was fantastic. We crashed for a quick one-hour power nap, and then headed out in the rain to explore.
Munich overall was a very easy city to walk around, and we felt very safe. Because it was Sunday, a lot of things weren’t open, but we walked all through the Marienplatz and the Viktualenmarket. They were setting up for Christmas markets, but the stalls were not yet open. We stopped by the famous Hofbrauhaus beer hall. But we were overwhelmed, jet-lagged, and didn’t really want to squeeze into a table with strangers, so we ate across the plaza at an Augustiner restaurant instead. The beers were delicious (our first Hefeweizens!) and we shared a very German snack plate of sausages, cheese, brown bread, shredded horseradish and more. We had an early bed time that night, and twelve very necessary hours of sleep!
We got up bright and early on Monday, and had breakfast at one of the little coffee shops in the train station next door. Then we checked out, stored our bags with the front desk, and wandered back through the Marienplatz for a little more sightseeing. We rode up the tower at the town hall for the views, and explored the Munich Residence museum (an unexpected gem – like a smaller and less-crowded Versailles!)
When it was time, we collected our bags and strolled back into the train station. It was very easy to find the correct platform and our train car (they are marked on the outside to indicate 1st and 2nd class). The seats were comfy, the ride was about two hours, and it was very easy to navigate. They announce each upcoming station, and show it on a scrolling monitor as you approach. We hopped off in Vilshofen, consulted our Google maps, and walked to the river bank where the ship was docked.
Boarding the Ship
Boarding the ship was very casual and easy. There’s no real check-in; you just walk onboard, give the front desk your name, and then relax and have a snack in the lounge until they escort you to your cabin. We were in one of the least expensive cabin categories, which was below the waterline on deck one. It’s worth noting that this deck is down a spiral staircase, with no elevator access, and it would be tough for anyone with mobility issues. The cabin was very “cozy”, but had more than enough storage space. The bathroom was modern, and the shower was bigger than on an ocean cruise. There were two small windows high on wall, right at water level, and we jokingly called it “duck view”. The cabin was stocked with bottled water, and had free wifi, and a nice Apple TV with Internet and movies. Higher level cabins have French balconies, or twin balconies (part French balcony and part full sit-down balcony), but in the cool/wet fall weather that we experienced all week, we really didn’t miss having the outdoor space.
There was time to stroll around town that afternoon, and then we were officially welcomed with a dockside Oktoberfest celebration hosted by the village of Vilshofen. We enjoyed local beer and pretzels, live music, and even some polka lessons! It could have been hokey, but was actually quite fun and festive, and was a great way to kick off the cruise. Dinner followed, in the main restaurant, with free-flowing local wine and beer. They really did a nice job of tailoring each night’s menu to the surrounding area, and we enjoyed some very nice German and Austrian wines along the way. Meals were all open-seating, which was good for meeting people, and the food and the service were top notch.
We did not sleep all that well that night, partially due to the time difference and partially due to the noise we could hear. Our location (next to the kitchen and more or less underneath the gangway) was not ideal, and I would choose something further down the hallway next time. Because this was a turnaround night (they were clearly offloading some things from the previous cruise and taking on new provisions, etc. ) there was a lot of foot traffic overhead.
Tuesday morning we were again up bright and early, and enjoyed a lovely breakfast in the main restaurant. Breakfast and lunch onboard was always buffet, with a few additional a la carte items you could order from the waiter. Every morning, outside of the main breakfast hours, they also offered “early” and “late” continental breakfast options in the lounge. It would be impossible to go hungry!
That first morning they had an information session in the lounge to explain the shore excursion options. The cruise director walked us through all the available (included) sightseeing options in each port, and provided details about the variations (i.e. “active walkers”, “slow walkers”, etc.) He also filled us in on a couple of optional ticketed excursions (such as a night at the Vienna concert hall) that were available – at added cost – for anyone who was interested. It was very helpful, and was a great overview of the days to come.
After that, we enjoyed a scenic sail down the river to Passau, arriving just after lunch. Although it was cold/breezy, we ventured up to the “sun deck” to see the scenery and take some photos. Unlike some river cruise lines, all AmaWaterways ships have a small pool and lounge chairs up on that deck, and it would be very inviting in the warmer months.
In Passau, we chose to do a hiking tour up to the castle that overlooks the city. The hike was really not difficult, just lots of steps, and we had some interesting commentary/history along the way. NOTE: For all the guided tours, we had “quiet vox” ear pieces to wear, so that we could hear our guide without having to be right next to him/her. The view from the castle was fabulous, and it would be even better on a sunny day. Afterwards, we had some free time to wander around Passau on our own, and we visited their beautiful cathedral.
We ate dinner that evening at the Chefs Table, which is a lovely room at the stern of the ship, with wraparound windows. It seats about 28 people, and everyone can make reservations at least once during a one-week cruise. The meal includes a special tasting menu, with wine pairings, great service, and some very interesting and unique dishes. They also brought me a cake and sang Happy Birthday 😊
The entertainment in the lounge that evening was a singer from the UK (she had spent several years in the West End playing Fantine, Evita, etc) and she was great. Unlike on ocean cruises, where an entertainer stays on board for the duration, the river cruises have local talent that get on and off each evening. Once she was done with her set, off she went, and we set sail down the river again.
Linz & Salzburg
Wednesday morning, we were docked in Linz, Austria. We enjoyed a morning walking tour of the city, which is a UNESCO city of “culture and music”, with lots of interesting museums, sculptures, public art installations, etc. After returning to the ship for a quick lunch, we headed off to Salzburg (the other option would have been the medieval village of Cesky Krumlov, in the Czech Republic, which I also would have loved to have seen)
The bus ride to Salzburg from Linz was about two hours, and we made a pitstop at Lake Mondsee for bathrooms and photos. (NOTE: those who chose the full-day Salzburg tour spent more time here to see the Sound of Music wedding chapel, which overlooks the lake). At Salzburg, the bus let us off on the edge of the city center, and we did about a 90-minute guided walking tour of Mirabell Gardens, the “Love Locks” bridge, the pedestrian-only city center, and the Cathedral, and then had about 90 minutes on our own, which was perfect. We did some Christmas shopping, and then sat and had coffee and strudel in a cute little café. I would definitely go back to Salzburg if I had the opportunity, as we did not even scratch the surface. There are museums, churches, a fortress overlooking the city, and more.
Thursday was a nice respite from the busy days prior. We were able to sleep in, as the morning schedule was just “scenic cruising in the Wachau Valley”, and we would not be in port until 2 pm. I appreciated that change in pace, and had my first restful night’s sleep of this trip. We had a nice breakfast and then spent some time up on the sun deck in the cold. We were the only ones up there, because it was chilly and windy, but we got to watch as we went through one of many locks, and take pictures of cute little villages, churches and castles along the river banks. The hot chocolate/latte machine in the lounge was much appreciated after that. We did later hear that some fellow passengers had braved the (heated) pool!!
Later that morning, while we cruised down the river, we enjoyed an interesting wine tasting taught by our onboard wine host, and learned about some different California blends. When we eventually docked in Weissenkirchen, we enjoyed an afternoon tour to Durnstein (a short bus ride away). This was a charming Medieval town, surrounded by vineyards, with castle ruins looming above them. Because it was so late in the season, a lot of the shops weren’t open, but we did manage to pick up some locally-made apricot liqueur!
That evening, we did a really nice winetasting tour in Weissenkirchen. We were sorted into small groups, with guides, for a scenic stroll through this wine-making village. Our group ended up at a really cool old wine cellar, where we tasted several different Austrian white wines. For me, the Gruner Veltliner was the clear winner (I didn’t really care for the Austrian Reisling or Chardonnay).
Friday morning, we were up bright and early (again) for breakfast and a 9 am departure (by bus) for Melk. This is a gorgeous baroque abbey/fortress/church overlooking the river, which has been continuously occupied by monks for 900 years. Monks still live there now, and run a small and prestigious private school (which our guide had attended!) We learned a lot about the Reformation, the Counter-Reformation, and the Hapsburgs.
After lunch, we enjoyed a scenic sail down past Durnstein, to leave the Wachau Valley. When we tied up in Krems, Austria we actually decided to skip the afternoon winetasting excursion (shocking, I know!) in favor of wandering around town on our own. It turned out to be one of my favorite stops. We walked into the pedestrian-only city center, where everything was decorated for Christmas, and we window-shopped our way down every block. There were outdoor kiosks selling mulled wine, and families enjoying a late-afternoon stroll, and the whole thing was picture-postcard-perfect.
On Saturday, we arrived in Vienna. With so much to see and do in such a big city, the cruise line had given us a lot of options, and we packed our day very full. We started with a morning walking tour, to get an overview of the city and its history. We saw the famous Lipizzaner Stallions outside the Spanish Riding School, we marveled at St Stephen’s Cathedral, and we learned about Vienna’s café culture. When the tour was over, we stayed in town (rather than riding back to the ship for lunch) and explored a bit on our own. We ate bratwursts at an open-air kiosk, wandered down cobblestone streets, and soaked up the atmosphere. That afternoon, we met back up with the guide for a tour of Schonbrunn Palace, the grand summer residence of the Hapsburg Emperors. The Christmas Market outside the palace had already opened for the season, so we were able to sneak in some souvenir shopping (and some gluhwein sampling 😊 )
Because the Christmas Markets were open, we opted to forego the usual evening tours — a Mozart and Strauss Concert or an evening at a traditional Austrian Heuriger (tavern) — and instead took advantage of a shuttle ride back into the city to spend a few hours at the Christmas Market at the Rathausplatz. There was music, twinkling lights, an open-air skating rink, and lots and lots of stalls selling all sorts of holiday treasures. We picked up some souvenirs for the kids, and thoroughly enjoyed the festive atmosphere.
Sunday was our last full day, and unfortunately it was not only cold but rainy. Because of the distance we needed to cover from Vienna to Budapest, the ship actually dropped us all off in Esztergom (about an hour’s drive from the city) so we could board buses and start our tour while the ship continued along the meandering river to eventually catch up with us in the late afternoon. We did a “panoramic” tour of the city. From the bus, and then a drizzly walk through Buda to the Fisherman’s Bastion and the Matthias Church. We had some free time to shop and explore nearby, and then we continued our panoramic tour into the Pest side of the city. We ended up at Heroes Square, where we learned more about the 1956 Uprising, the Cold War, and the modern history of this fascinating city.
That night, the final evening of the cruise, was a definite highlight. We enjoyed the Captain’s cocktail party, and a special farewell dinner, and then the ship left the dock to do a leisurely cruise through the heart of Budapest. With amazing illuminated buildings/palaces/castles/monuments on each side. Everyone was up on the top deck, marveling at the sights. I actually had tears in my eyes, and it was only partially due to all the wine 😊
Disembarkation on Monday was handled exceptionally well. We had all been assigned to specific shuttle times, based on our onward plans. So, we were able to sleep in, have some breakfast, and relax in the lounge until called. They loaded us (and our luggage) onto a shuttle and drove us to the airport. There we were met by someone from Amawaterways to hold our hands for the airport check-in, and make sure we were safely on our way. The whole thing, from beginning to end, was top notch.