Amalfi Dreamin’

Is there any place more romantic and relaxing than Italy’s Amalfi Coast? I’m not sure, but after reading this trip report from honeymooners Meg and Henry, I’m ready to pack my bags and go!

Hi Ann!

We had an amazing honeymoon! Thank you so much for helping us set it all up.

I think it was really nice to have a few relaxing days in Gaeta to recover from the craziness of the wedding. The hotel (Grand Hotel le Rocce) was beautiful, clean and had a fantastic small private sandy beach set several steps down the cliff-side. It was nice having the rental car for this part of the trip, we were able to take the short drive into the little city of Gaeta, do some sight seeing and explore some restaurants and bars. We got down to Sorrento and dropped the car off without issues, we ended up taking the ~35min taxi to Positano from there (~65 euro).

Positano was awesome. Hotel Posa Posa was adorable and they were extremely friendly. They ended up giving us a free upgraded room with a balcony once they found out it was our honeymoon. We hit up Fornillo beach a couple of days there, all the way down the many stairs that start right outside Posa Posa, we enjoyed this beach much better than the Main Beach.  Our favorite Restaurant for dinner in Positano was Ristorante Max. It was a little more expensive, but a great experience. We did our boat cruise that my bridesmaids got us, through the company Amalfi Sails. This was an amazing private day trip to and around Capri and up the Amalfi coast, allowed us to do some swimming off the boat and lunch on Capri before heading back to Positano.

couple enjoying the amalfi coast italy

Praiano was also great! Hotel Pellegrino was very nice, clean, and updated. What made this hotel stand out was the hospitality from its owner Luigi, he was so welcoming and gave it a nice small family run business feel. He also made an amazing breakfast each morning! We enjoyed walking down the many steps to Gavitella beach. It was definitely more quiet of a town, and without one town center but a string of shops/restaurants closer to the hotel Pellegrino as well some cute seaside restaurants by the main Marina di Praia Beach.

Likely our favorite thing we did was the day trip to Le Vigne di Raito. Fabrizio was great for the transfer ( i think next time we would save some money by taking the ferry from Positano to Salerno then taxi to the vineyard, and taxi/transfer from the vineyard back to the hotel). We had a blast walking through the Vineyard and  learning about the wine-making process, then had an amazing 4 course lunch with plenty of wine tasting at the top with a beautiful view! We brought some delicious wine from there home with us.

The trip up to Rome was easy with the transfer/train ride. Hotel Siena was small, but clean and updated and in a great central location. Our Vatican and Colosseum tours were great! I think if we did it again we would only have spent two nights in Rome. The transfer to airport was smooth as well.

Thanks again Ann! Let us know if you have any other specific questions we can answer for you.

Best,

Meg and Henry

Easy, Breezy Italy

Loved, loved, loved receiving this feedback from Jaime and Matt!  Not just because they had such a fabulous time in Italy, but because it was the little touches (great guides, fabulous and reliable drivers, pre-arranged train tickets, and helpful concierges) that made such an impression on them. Anyone can plan a trip to Italy, but a true travel professional knows how to make it all seamless so that you can just relax and enjoy the ride 🙂

Hi Ann!

We can’t thank you enough for your amazing planning expertise. Our trip was wonderful and your itinerary made it so easy.  I could have seen us making some mistakes with language barriers and perhaps booking trains and maybe making an error so we both agreed it felt so nice to have a professional take care of all the arrangements so we could just relax and enjoy!! Not to mention the hotels were amazing and in great locations.

I’ll start with Aer Lingus… really nice flight, the red eye on the way there was a bit difficult. I was a zombie pretty much the first day but we did push through as you recommended and I was fine the next day. On the way back, Aer Lingus was a bit hard to find in the airport in Venice but we also arrived 3 hours early so we had to wait for them to set up their check in. That could be a bit confusing for people if they arrive early like we did… also Aer Lingus seemed to share check in space with Jet Blue. The flight back was much better as we got back around 8 pm from Boston and it was really 2 am for us so we were able to go right to sleep and then wake up this morning being fully rested and ready to go to work. It was helpful that we cleared security in Dublin and when we made it back to Boston we were already done. It was nice you gave us a heads-up because that could potentially be a bit confusing it seemed like we had to go through twice.

Our driver who met us at the airport in Rome was wonderful and awaited us with a sign with our names. Made it super easy and nice to have someone waiting. He even bought us a cappuccino since our driver was running a few minutes behind schedule but our driver was amazing! So helpful, informative and spoke great English… I would definitely use Rome Cabs again!

River Palace was awesome! The people at the desk were so helpful and informative. They gave us a complimentary bottle of wine. The hotel was in a great location. We felt very safe and were able to walk to sites. The concierge provided a map and circled places of interest, called cabs, and were just generally friendly and helpful. It really felt like a little home for the few days we were there. I loved all the detail you provided on the itinerary about local city tax and credit card for incidentals… etc… just helped us know what to expect. The concierge also confirmed our tours for us!

We loved our tour guide for our Colosseum tour. His name was Gigi he was so passionate about the information and very funny! The only thing I would say about this tour is again we arrived very early to the meeting place and were a little worried because it wasn’t an office it was just a park, but as soon as it got closer to the time of the tour we saw plenty of people also waiting, i think initially we just weren’t sure we were in the right place.

Our Vatican tour was also really great, we liked that the meeting place was in an office and we actually showed up right on time for this one so we were very lucky it was easy to find!

Next we set off for the Naples train station. We were happy you shared to be vigilant. We didn’t run into any problems but we did witness a man take advantage of some ladies traveling alone. He grabbed their luggage despite their protest and took the bags on the train, then he stood there until they gave him some money and when they gave him one euro he was not happy and let them know it!! Just another heads-up story for people about the train station. He wasn’t in uniform but wore clothes very similar to one and was sort of an imposter, asking to see people’s tickets to try to confuse them into thinking that he was an employee and then grabbed their bags and demanded tips.

Next we met our absolute favorite driver!! His name was Carmine and he was just the sweetest! He was practically giving us a tour on our drive and was super friendly! The only thing was we thought we could pay by credit card and he said it was cash only so we were just happy we had enough…

Posa Posa was a great hotel in Positano. It was more basic and more beachy feeling with a tile floor and just basic furniture, did not have a luxury feel like the Rome hotel but we were happy with the mix. Plus, the balcony was amazing! We literally woke up to a view of the sea, it had a table and chairs out there so we were able to sit and drink wine and relax!! That was our same view for the breakfast each morning as well! The people working at this hotel were also very nice and helpful with anything we needed. It was a great location. A few restaurants in Positano that we greatly recommend are di Vincenzo’s, Constantinos, and a very cool experience where you get taken to a place without a menu and they serve you a 6 course meal for 40 euros made by “mama” called La Tagliata. We hiked the Path of the Gods while we were there and took a boat to Capri which we recommend. Our driver back to Naples was also very nice, (he knows you) Fabrizio.

honeymoon couple in front of Italian grotto

The trains that you booked were fast and easy. We loved not having to purchase tickets and just having to hand them to the staff!!!

Our Florence hotel was amazing!!! So swanky haha… the breakfast was quite impressive!! They hooked us up with some champs, and aperitivo, when we arrived.  I think if we had to do it all over again, we would have done one more night to explore more in Florence and one less night in Venice, just our personal preference.

The only time we “messed up” was we didn’t realize you booked our rental car pick up at 10 am and we didn’t show up until 12-1. It didn’t end up being an issue. We picked up the car and put it in a lot so we could spend a few more hours exploring Florence before driving out into the countryside.

The next part of the trip was probably our favorite!!! We absolutely loved Radda in Chianti! The view from our room in our hotel looked like a back drop or a painting!!! We absolutely loved this hotel and Linda our favorite receptionist. She sent us to 3 wineries, one a small family run and two others, one was a castle, and one an old monastery.  We did not expect so much history on our wine tasting tour but it was so interesting!! The mom and pop winery gave us a free tour and tasting and of course we bought some amazing wine! But it was pretty cool to have a private tour and see how the wine is made, and a private tasting as well!!!! We also drove to check out San Gimignano and Siena  — very cool to explore. Returning the car was very easy and the car came with a gps which made navigation a breeze.

a view like a painting! Honeymoon at Radda in Chianti, Italy

Our least favorite part of our trip was Venice. It’s very cool to see because it’s unique, but we just loved the other places so much more. The hotel there was just ok compared to the others as well as the concierge and location. We had been so spoiled though to be honest… we got off the train and found the water bus without a problem… it was only 7 euro each for a one way, and only took about 45 minutes, plus the boat ride was pretty cool. We did the same on the way back to the airport, all the people at the waterbus ticket stations spoke English and were able to explain exactly what to do to catch the waterbus back to the airport. It was only 15 euro each and took about 1 hour and 30 minutes as opposed to 30 minutes with a private taxi. We were happy to save a few bucks here and it worked out with our flight times so we didn’t mind that it took a bit longer. We didn’t really feel like we even needed too much time in Venice as we were kind of spent on seeing churches and sites and just wanted to chill at this point.

a honeymoon in Italy wouldn't be complete without Venice

The only other thing we wished was that we gave ourselves a bit more spending money in our overall budget because we did end up spending twice as much as we thought we would. We never skipped wine at dinner and always had more than one course haha… plus we shopped a bit to bring back wine and leather 😬

a happy man across a huge pizza in Italy

Overall we felt like our itinerary was a great mix of adventure, relaxation, sight seeing, and learning/ touring. Italy is our new favorite place and we absolutely want to return!!! The people were great, food amazing, views incredible, wine delicious, and just overall history and culture so interesting and impressive.

a smiling honeymooner on a wall with beautiful rolling Italian hills

Thank you so much for your time and attention to detail with planning this trip. We kept mentioning how incredible it was that after only meeting once, we felt like you completely got our vision and nailed it!! We loved that you yourself have used some of the vendors on your own trips! We will definitely be calling you as soon as we save up for our next trip and send our friends your way!!

With gratitude,

Jaime and Matt

An Epic “Escape”

Christina and Chris were celebrating their second wedding anniversary, and contemplating the reality of starting a family at some point in the future, and wanted to go cram in as much of Europe as possible before “settling down”.  Because Chris is a teacher, their summers are flexible, so Christina blocked a few weeks out of work and they sat down with me to plan an epic adventure. In the span of three weeks, they did a pretty good job of exploring Belgium, Italy and Greece. While you might not want to replicate their breakneck pace, you could take their tips and suggestions (below) and make any one of these three countries into a very nice vacation on its own:

Our European Escape

Although our trip was just over a three-week span according to the calendar, it feels like my husband and I were away for months!  Now looking back at the photos and reminiscing about the adventures from the beginning of our trip, the moments already feel like a lifetime ago.  I am so grateful for this feeling and for your expert planning for our travels abroad!!

Belgium

Mons, Belgium was the first destination on our whirlwind tour.  My dad has been living there for just over a year now, and we joined my step-mom, brother, and Loofa (my dad and step-mom’s bichon frise) for five fun-filled days.  We sampled beers in every town and city, reveled in the chocolate, and devoured the waffles.  We began our time together in the city center of Mons, and then branched out to Tournai, Waterloo, Brussels, Ostend, Bruges, and Ghent in the following days.  Each place reflected its roots – French speaking Wallonia or the Dutch speaking Flemish countryside.  A Flemish city always seemed to be organized and clean!

two people and a puppy in front of the canal in Ghent BelgiumSome highlights include Notre-Dame de Tournai, the cathedral in the center of the city, and Tournai’s large open city square with rows of fountains, the museum and Lion’s Mound overlooking the countryside at Waterloo, the Grand Place in Brussels, the expansive beach at Ostend, the architecture and beauty of Bruges, and Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child.  This sculpture is remarkable for a number of reasons, one of which is that it was the only sculpture to leave Italy during Michelangelo’s lifetime.  (I can’t believe how fortunate we are to have seen both Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child in Bruges and the Pietà in Rome on the same European trip!).  We took a hilarious and wonderful horse-drawn carriage tour of Bruges while in the city, as well!

CD - BrugesI was least familiar with the places to see in this country, relying mostly on my dad for our itinerary.  I did, however, consult your Destination Guide email that introduced us to Belgium via the web.  This was a great resource!  Because of this email, my family specifically decided to take our last full day together to travel to Ghent, Belgium.  The city was described as a “less-touristy” Bruges, and we were excited to explore it as a family.  It did not disappoint!  The city offered a castle, boat tours along the city’s canals, and a beautiful skyline of medieval architecture.  There is a wealth of history in Ghent, and we only just tasted a sample!

a happy group in front of the unique architecture of Tournai

Belgium is beautiful.  I may have underestimated it because of its size, but it has so much to offer!  I am very grateful for the time we were able to spend together exploring this lovely country with my family.

 Italy

After a farewell breakfast with my family, Chris and I were off to our first stop in Italy – Venice!  Ann, your instructions and maps for transportation from the airport to our hotel were clear and incredibly helpful – thank you!  We spent the evening wandering the streets, eating dinner, and people watching in Piazza San Marco.  The next day we traveled by water taxi around the canals and took one to the island of Murano.  In addition to watching some very skilled glass blowing demonstrations, we ate our best gelato here!  We grabbed a late afternoon snack of wine, cheese, and charcuterie at this local well-rated hole-in-the-wall type place that was amazing (Hostaria Vecio Biavarol)!  After this we wondered the streets some more, ate a delicious dinner, and took our long-anticipated gondola ride.  A perfect introduction to Italy and the days to come!

Our second stop was Cinque Terre.  We stayed in La Spezia, which was a great choice – especially with our luggage (thank you Ann!).  We took the train to Manarola for dinner on the first night (the local trains are very easy to navigate here!).  We ate a delicious meal and then explored the town, hiking to see the views at sunset.  We took the ferry the following morning to get from town to town. We didn’t hike as much as we would have liked, but we hit the beaches at Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, and Riomaggiore instead!  We spent our final evening hours walking the streets of La Spezia, which is a very lively town in the evening!

a man with arms wide and the cliff side town in Cinque Terre Italy behind him

We took a train to Florence the next day.  Our hotel was very close to the train station and perfectly located for exploring the city.  Again, you gave us a wonderful recommendation to try the Central Market in Florence.  This was our first stop – and it was huge!  We grabbed a quick, delicious lunch from the upstairs floor that was filled with a number of great Italian restaurants.  We met our Accademia tour guide in the afternoon, Brenda from ArtViva.  Having now seen the David twice, I can attest to the value in touring the Accademia with a guide.  Brenda gave many more insights about the sculpture than I knew on my own, and hearing her talk about the details with the David in front of us was incredible.  After the tour, we ended up buying tickets to an opera for that night, held in a small church.  We were skeptical of our purchase when we first saw the venue (it was so small!), but the talent was impressive!

The next day we actually decided to book a day tour in Tuscany with Walkabout Florence – we couldn’t resist!  Even though we were disappointed to cut our time in Florence, we ended up being very happy with the tour purchase.  The tour took us to Siena (Florence’s “rival” city from years past), an organic farm and vineyard in the Chianti region for a Tuscan lunch and wine tasting, San Gimignano, and a final stop in Pisa!  The whole experience was wonderful, from learning about the horse races in Siena to the delicious meal at the vineyard to the spiraling, sea-legs-like climb of the Leaning Tower.

The following morning we took a high-speed train from Florence to Naples where Fabrizio picked us up for a stress-free transfer to Sorrento.  Along the way, we had scheduled a tour of Pompeii.  Our tour guide Barbara introduced us to the ancient city.    It is terrible to think of the fate of these people, but I am very thankful we were able to see this historical site in person.  Fabrizio was kind enough to wait for us at a coffee shop (and keep our luggage safe!) while we toured with Barbara.  He finished our transfer with the drop off at our hotel in Sorrento.  Chris and I were excited about this hotel because of its rooftop pool!

the cliff side town of Positano lit up at night Since we only had a little over a day to see the Amalfi coast, we split our time between a bus ride to  Positano on our first evening and a boat tour around the island of Capri the next day.  Positano was gorgeous!  We hiked up and down the town, dug our toes into the black sand, and grabbed a Spritz from a cliffside restaurant before taking the bus back to our hotel.  Capri was also stunning – offering grottos of orange, green, and blue that you can tour with a group or by renting your own private boat.  We decided to go with the group tour for the cost savings, and toured the entire island of Capri, including a stop in the famous Blue Grotto.  After our island tour, we took the ferry back to Sorrento with enough time to hit our hotel’s rooftop pool and explore the town famous for its limoncello.

The next day we took a morning transfer and train to arrive in Rome by noon.  After checking into our beautiful hotel, we explored our surroundings – including a stop at the Spanish steps!  Our first night in Rome was our two-year anniversary, so we ate dinner at a restaurant picked out by my husband.  He did a great job researching!  We had wonderful service and a mouthwatering meal at Matermatuta (we highly recommend this spot!).

We woke up bright and early the following morning for our CityWonders’ Vatican skip-the-line tour.  Having visited the Vatican before (but without a guide!), I was looking forward to the insights we would learn as part of the tour group.  We were not disappointed!  Not only were we able to “skip-the-line” and listen to our knowledgeable tour guide, we were able to enter the museum before it even opened!  The early start time of the tour was totally worth it – and it included a skip-the-line tour of St. Peter’s Basilica, too.  Chris and I even climbed the dome afterward!  After this we actually went back to our hotel to nap – which helped us enjoy the evening of sightseeing around the city.

Our final day in Rome we did a tour of the Colosseum, Palatine Hill, and the Roman Forum with CityWonders. This tour was very informative and also let’s you skip-the-line! After the tour we tried to hop on a tour bus of the city, but I wouldn’t recommend this bus to others.  The line for the hop-on, hop-off bus tours was long and the ride itself was not as informative or enjoyable as we would have liked.  After we “hopped off,” we wandered the streets of Rome to sightsee and grabbed a later lunch before heading back to our hotel for our transfer to the airport.  We were off to catch our evening flight to Greece!

Greece

Our private driver was waiting for us (even with our delayed flight!) and drove us to our city center Athens accommodations.  Everything went smoothly, allowing us to get a good night’s rest before our 8:30am walking tour of Athens the next morning.

The tour group was the two of us and four Australian friends.  We were happy to have them along since our tour guide was not the chattiest!  It was relaxing to walk to the major sites in Athens, including the Parliament building with its symbolically dressed guards, the first modern day Olympic stadium, the Temple of Zeus, and the Acropolis.  Once at the Acropolis, we were on our own to explore.  We spent time on the mount itself – a massive example of Grecian achievement – and followed the tour with a visit to the New Acropolis Museum.  This museum was incredibly well done!  If you visit Athens, this museum is a must-see!  For the remainder of the day, Chris and I grabbed a late lunch and then toured the city streets that night.

a couple in front of the blue and white houses of Santorini GreeceEarly the next day we flew to Santorini!  Thank you so much for booking us a gorgeous, newly renovated resort in Fira!  The location was a small hike to the main streets of Fira town, but completely worth it for the peacefulness of the accommodations.  We loved it!  We enjoyed the pool and amenities at the resort first, and then walked into the town of Fira to explore and have dinner.  After a day of on-and-off rain (so rare for the island!) the sky surprised us with a gorgeous sunset while we ate dinner on the cliffside of Fira.  A relaxing, beautiful first day in Santorini!

a man on a donkey climbing up the steeps steps in SantoriniOn our second day, we woke early to catch a cable car down to the pier.  I would highly recommend taking a cable car in the early morning!  We had no line and barely had to wait before our car zipped us down the cliffside to the pier.  We strolled along until we found what we were looking for – donkeys!  We heard about taking donkeys up the cliffs of Fira, and we couldn’t resist!   The weathered Greek men practically tossed us onto our donkeys (or rather, mules, we realized), and off they trotted!  No instructions or warnings of how to ride them, we barreled up the donkey path – almost running into pedestrians and other donkey/mule riders along the way.  The experience was hilarious and definitely one of our favorites from the trip!

After we dismounted at the top of the cliff, Chris and I took a public bus to Akrotiri to see the famous Red Beach.  It was beautiful to see the contrasting red rocks with the deep blue water.  That evening, we took a public bus again, but this time to the other side of the island – to Oia.  Not only did the town offer gorgeous views, it hosts the majority of the iconic Greek Isle “postcard” landmarks.  Only eating our dinner paused my picture taking!  It truly is one of the most beautiful places on earth.

a stunning sunset of the bay with a restaurant balcony to the side in Oia Greece

The following morning we packed up for our final transfer before heading home!  We took the SeaJet ferry from Santorini to Mykonos.  Everything went smoothly with our transportation, and we were in awe when we arrived at the Myconian Imperial Hotel!  The service treated us like royalty, toured us around the amazing facilities, and left us to enjoy complimentary refreshments in our beautiful hotel room.

All of our meals at the resort were delicious – from the free buffet-style breakfast, to the lunches at the poolside restaurant, to the main dinner restaurant with the gorgeous views, to the amazing sushi restaurant that took reservations until midnight.  Definitely worth every penny!  We made use of the free shuttle to the main town one evening, caught the sunset with the famous Myconian windmills, and ate a traditional Greek meal at the quaintest restaurant, To Maereio.  We highly recommend this small, hidden eatery!  It was interesting finding the place though because the streets of Mykonos were designed to confuse pirates – and it definitely is easy to get lost!

On our final day, we had reserved a horseback riding excursion through the hotel.  Our guide, Angelika, was wonderful and so patient with us as we learned the ropes (literally!) of horseback riding.  We had a wonderful experience – the only downer was that the pictures made it seem like we would be riding along the beach the whole time (and even in the ocean!).  We actually rode on a trail to and from the beach, with a small amount of time on the beach itself.  Granted, I guess the horses really like to roll around in the sand when it’s hot!! So Chris got some action when he had to quickly jump off his horse to not be a part of the backscratching party, hahaha! Thankfully he was fine – and it now makes for one of our most hilarious stories from the trip!

Before heading home, we basked in as much Grecian sun and Aegean ocean water as we could!  We spent a total of three days at our resort on Mykonos, and it was the perfect way to relax, refresh, and reflect on our trip before returning home.  We’re so happy we booked this trip with you, Ann!  We would’ve never booked such a beautiful place for ourselves at the end of our trip, but it was the perfect way to top off our amazing adventures in Europe.

All in all, this trip was EXACTLY what we were hoping for and looking forward to – it was the trip of a lifetime!  Thank you so much for making it possible!

Eating and drinking our way through Italy

Taste of Tuscany — October 2012

I just returned from a food-and-wine-focused group “escape” to Italy, and I can’t wait to share my feedback and photos from this amazing experience. We were a small group (fourteen people in total), escorted by my favorite chef (Kait Roberts, owner of Easy Entertaining, Inc.), and we had a wonderful time eating and drinking our way through Tuscany!

My husband and I flew over a couple of days early to spend some time in Rome before meeting up with the rest of the group in Florence. We arrived at the Rome airport at about 9 am on a Friday morning, and were met by a driver from Rome Cabs, who successfully navigated the rush hour traffic and delivered us safely to our hotel – the BorromeoDespite the early hour, the room was ready and we were able to check in right away (a great surprise!)  The room was quite small, but the hotel is a clean, safe, three-star property in a great location on via Cavour, within easy walking distance of the train station and the Colosseum, and it served us well as a place to sleep for two nights, which is all that we wanted.

standing in front of a domed church in Italy

After a shower and a brief nap, we took a cab over to the Vatican to grab some lunch before our afternoon tour. We enjoyed our first taste of Roman thin-crust pizza (pizza Margarita for me, and a pizza rustica — white pizza with prosciutto — for him) and their house red wine. Ahh, Italy 🙂

Our four-hour guided tour that afternoon (by Dark Rome) included skip-the-line access to the Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel, and Raphael’s Rooms. It was great to have the guide providing history and context for everything we were seeing, but the sheer volume of art surrounding us was a bit overwhelming (especially when working on two hours of sleep!) In retrospect, while I’m really glad we got the chance to see it, I don’t think it was the best idea to tackle the Vatican on our arrival day!

inside the Vatican in Italya marble statue of Mary and Jesus in Italy

After the tour, we cabbed back to the hotel (TIP: be sure to ask the price before you get into the taxi; we found that quotes varied greatly, and we haggled to get the best one) and asked the front desk to recommend a nearby restaurant for an early dinner. At their suggestion, we walked a few blocks up the street to Trattoria Nuova Stella for a dish of pasta, a bottle of wine, and some tiramisu.  It was fine, and exactly what we needed at that moment (quick, close by, and plenty of available tables), but nothing to rave about.

Saturday morning, after a nice restorative sleep, we were up and out bright and early for our morning walking tour of Ancient Rome (with Dark Rome, once again). We grabbed a cappuccino and cornetto along the way, and met our guide just outside the Colosseum. This fascinating four-hour tour included the Colosseum, the Forum, and Palatine Hill, and I would recommend it to everyone. They provided so much background and history that it really made these ancient sites come alive in our imagination!

the inside of the Colosseum in Rome

After the tour, we grabbed our map of Rome and set out to see the rest of the city on foot. Of course, we first had to find a trattoria with a little outdoor terrace (In Roma restaurant, on the Piazza de Consolazione) so we could sit down and enjoy some bruschetta, gnocchi, red wine, and my new favorite pasta dish – “cacio e pepe” (pecorino and pepper). So simple, but so delicious!

Suitably fortified, we wandered all over the city, to the Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, the Quirinale, the Medici Villa and its beautiful gardens overlooking the city, the Piazza Barberini and the Triton Fountain, and more. It was a lot of walking in one afternoon, but Rome was worth it.

a busy street in Italythe trevi fountain in Rome

That evening we met up with friends for dinner (they had arrived that day) at Da Giovanni, which had been recommended by Chef Kait (from her student days in Rome).  What a find! It was an out-of-the-way little place filled with locals, and it felt like we were eating in my husband’s grandmother’s kitchen. We feasted on homemade pasta, grilled meats, local cheeses, and house wine, and the whole tab (for six people) came to about 140 Euros. On the leisurely stroll back to the hotel, we somehow found room to stop for gelato 🙂

Sunday morning we enjoyed breakfast on the hotel’s rooftop terrace and then checked out and walked to the Termini train station (about 4-5 blocks away). We already had our tickets, so it was a fairly simple matter of figuring out which track we needed and, before we knew it, we were on our way to Florence. After a 90-minute (scenic) ride, we arrived at Florence’s Santa Maria Novella station. From there it was an easy walk to our hotel – the Hotel de la Ville.

the famous Duomo in Florence

The entire group stayed at this hotel, a lovely four-star property on a quiet pedestrian-only street (the Piazza degli Antinori) just three blocks from the Duomo. We loved the large lobby bar (presided over by the friendliest bartender I’ve ever met), the daily breakfast (my morning cappuccino sported a different decoration every day!), and the gorgeous two-floor suite that they upgraded us to. Less wonderful was the ongoing problem with air conditioning (some rooms had none; some had too much), and the sometimes “chilly” front desk staff. All in all, though, it was a great home base for exploring the city.

standing by the window in the Italian Hotelthe front of the Hotel De La Ville in Italy

Sunday evening the whole group met up for the first time for happy hour in the lobby bar and a welcome dinner right there at the hotel. It was the perfect way to break the ice, and it set the right tone for the rest of the week.

Monday morning we met in the lobby for a half-day guided walking tour of Florence. Our guide, “Yadri”, was an art historian with a real passion for the social and cultural history of the city, and she gave us a fantastic overview as we explored the Medici Chapels, the Duomo and its Baptistry, the Piazza della Repubblica, the Piazza d. Signoria, and the Ponte Vecchio. After the tour our afternoon was free, so several of us enjoyed some paninis and a little bit of shopping.

We met up again at the hotel that evening for a highlight of the trip – our authentic Tuscan dinner at Ristorante del Fagioli, another one of Chef Kait’s local favorites. They welcomed us with open arms into this cute little local “find”, and Kait ordered for the whole table. The rest of that evening is a blur… the dishes just kept coming! Antipasto, bruschetta, bottles of homemade wine, several kinds of fresh pasta, porcini mushrooms, potatoes, and the star of the night – the Bistecca Fiorentina (the beef is hanging in the open kitchen and they hack off the desired amount to bring out for your approval before putting it on the grill!)  The whole thing was unbelievably inexpensive, and we left stuffed and happy.

a crowd looking at the David in Florence

Tuesday morning was drizzly, but we grabbed our umbrellas and met up with our guide for a half-day tour of Florence’s most famous museums – the Accademia and the Uffizi Gallery. This was my first visit to the Accademia, and I was not prepared for the impact of Michelangelo’s “David”. No matter how many times you’ve seen it in pictures, experiencing the real thing in person is just breathtaking!

two cups of coffee with cute decorations in Tuscany

After our morning in the museums, we had some more free time to explore Florence on our own. Several of us stopped into Trattoria Anita (yet another Chef Kait recommendation) for a “workman’s lunch” with the locals. We were clearly the only English-speakers there, and they did seat us in a separate room, but it was more than worth it for the decadent “pasta quattro formaggio”.

Later that afternoon we all boarded a mini-bus for our first excursion — a winetasting in Greve in Chianti. We drove through the beautiful countryside to Castello Vicchiomaggio, where we enjoyed  breathtaking views over the Tuscan hills and a tour of their winemaking facilities. We also tasted their Chianti Classico and some delicious super-Tuscans.  Needless to say, after such a busy day, we had a quiet ride back to Florence and an early dinner and bedtime.

walking through the narrow Italian streetsa wine cellar in Italy

Wednesday morning we re-grouped in the lobby for an informal walk around the city with Chef Kait. She introduced us to her favorite coffee shop, her favorite vendors in the San Lorenzo market, her favorite shoe store, jewelry store, etc. It was great to have these personal connections, and I know that many in the group took advantage of them (I saw lots of new leather jackets and silk scarves by the end of the week!) Then we picked up paninis to go and hopped back on the mini-bus for a daytrip to Lucca.

a fruit market stall in the Italian streetsa view of Ponte Vecchio in Florence

Along the way, we visited a beautiful little agriturismo called Fattoria di Fubbiano. It was up a treacherous winding road in the hills outside Lucca, but it was more than worth the scary drive! The scenery was gorgeous, and we were treated to a crash course in both wine-making and olive oil pressing, and then enjoyed an over-the-top tasting experience in an ancient wine cellar, with locally made cheese and honey, their own olive oil, red and white wines, Tuscan salami, bread, and more.  The white wine was so good that we purchased several bottles to enjoy during our cooking class the following night.

a view of the lush green Tuscany hills dining at a long table under stone arches in Florence

After the wine tasting we stopped in Lucca for a short visit. Some of the group headed into the center of town with Kait for coffee, shopping and sightseeing, while the rest of us took a relaxing stroll along the top of the ancient city walls.  Back in Florence that evening, some of us had dinner at an outdoor trattoria on one of the main piazzas, and another visit to what was quickly becoming “our” gelato shop – Grom, on the via del Campanile.

Thursday was our last day in Florence, and we made the most of it! We met Chef Kait bright and early for a visit to the Mercato Centrale to shop for ingredients for our cooking class. Everyone marveled over the huge market filled with specialized vendors selling only the freshest local produce, meat, cheese, and other products. It took hours for us to see, taste, and decide on everything, and we loved it! We spent the rest of the day shopping and exploring on our own, and then met up at the hotel for a short bus ride to Syracuse University’s villa on the outskirts of Florence, where we had rented the kitchen and courtyard for the evening for our cooking class.

shopping for fresh foods at the market in Italydeciding which salami to get in a market in Florence

Chef Kait assigned the “boys” to assemble the antipasto while she toasted some bruschetta and demonstrated her talent at making homemade pasta (it looked so EASY when she did it!) She taught us two quick pan sauces (one with dried and fresh porcinis and cream, and one with tomatoes and garlic) and fielded a wide range of questions from novice and experienced cooks, and then we dug in. The wine flowed freely, and it was as if the fourteen of us had known each other forever.

learning how to make pasta at an Italian cooking class

Friday morning came all too soon, and we packed up and checked out of the hotel. The lucky ones were continuing on to Venice, Rome, or another Italian city, but Everett and I were headed home to the kids.   One quick connection in Frankfurt, and then we found ourselves back at Logan Airport with nothing left to do but daydream about our next trip to Italy.

If you want to see more. The photos from Rome and Florence are available on my Facebook page. And a short video of our market visit and cooking class can be found here. We’re already working on another trip for 2013, so let me know if you’re interested!

You provided excellent guidance for us. I appreciated that you really had us think about what was most important to us when we were selecting the right cruise – and not to totally focus on what other people had to say. THANK YOU for helping to make this a memorable trip for our family! It really was a trip of a lifetime!

Clare and Mark (family cruise to Alaska)

The level of service we experienced was out of this world (and we did NOT make it easy on Ann). We weren’t quite sure where we wanted to go, when we would be able to go, or what “vibe” we were going for. After asking us some key questions (what we liked, didn’t like, why, etc.) Ann helped us narrow down our trip details and planned the honeymoon of our dreams. She helped book some of our excursions, answered some emergency questions while abroad and was always available/willing to help. I think it’s safe to say we won’t be using anyone else for future travel planning – Ann is a rockstar!

Carli (Italy and Spain)